connected by a direct train: Eurostar's new year-round link from London St Pancras to Marseille St-Charles. So, you can breakfast in the capital, then whizz along High Speed One (opened 2007) through Kent to the Channel Tunnel (opened 1994) before slotting into France's ever-expanding high-speed network (opened 1981). Relax as almost the entire length of France blurs past at 186mph, and -- Italy, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and Switzerland; Basel station even has a special terminus for French trains. From Basel, you could be back in Paris in three hours aboard a Train à Grande Vitesse, the high-speed backbone of French long-distance travel, or board a "classic" EuroCity train, the Vauban, beside the Rhine through Alsace and Lorraine to the -- Yet this is a nation devoted to the railway. Recently a "rail Ryanair" was introduced, in the shape of the Ouigo proposition: high-speed, high-density trains that link cities such as Lyon and Marseille with Marne-la-Vallée, east of Paris, with fares from as little as €10 if you -- between Paris and Bordeaux can yield one-way fares as low as €29 in first class, a quarter of the normal fare. And the trains are impressively swift: on the newest high-speed line, from Paris to Strasbourg, services touch 200mph, covering the 300 miles in 2 hours 17 minutes. The real joy of French rail travel, though, is to be found away from high-speed lines. Even on the outskirts of Paris, the line curling around from the modestly impressive St-Lazare terminus to Versailles presents a fascinating fresh vision of the capital. In the Ardennes,